Handlebars can add a great deal of character to your bike, but before deciding on your new set of bars.
It is important to understand the technical differences. You can add custom style and comfort by choosing the right set of bars for your bike if the stock bars just aren’t doing it for you. Handlebars are one of the easiest ways to make a statement and alter the look of your bike dramatically. It’s not a one-size-fits-all technique, but you need to know what set of bars are going to work for you and your motorcycle.
Go check the spacing on your risers once you find out the handlebar size you need. Handlebars typically have a diameter of either 1″ or 7/8″. Nearly all Harley applications will use 1 ‘, but 1 1/4’ and 1 1/2 ” are available for those riders looking for fatter bars and may need special clamps/hand controls depending on the bars. Most Metric (XS650’s,
Triumphs unit and pre-unit, or any British or Japanese Custom) bikes will accept 7/8 ‘handlebars.
All Harley products get a regular 3 1/2″ on core lock zone. About the only choice for this portion would’ve been if you have a Springer front end. Generally a Springer front end has a broader fastening zone (4 3/4″ to be exact), but the strips you purchase must have a broader fastening area spacing to match.
There have been thousands of handlebars from which to choose, then let’s go through some of the specific styles
You might seek:
Types Of Handle Bars :
1) Dresser Bars/ Touring:
These are commonly quite easy to identify since they are considerably larger than other handlebars. They are so much larger only at the center in order to meet the size and shape of the roll bar but are usually 12″-20″ high.
2) Ape Hangers:
Ape hangers earn the name from the way the rider literally holds on to the bars when riding. The most distinguishing thing for these bars is the height increase, as they typically provide height increases around 12″-20″.
3) H Bars/ T Bars:
T Bars can vary in shape and height, but what really separates them from other bars is the way they are Placed on triple trees. These bars have been installed in risers that allow you to lock it right into multiple trees instead of using a lock.
4) Z – Bars:
Z-Bars can come in a variety of elevation heights and types but they are usually differentiated by the 90° angle bends at the base and the height of the bars.
5) Drag Bars:
Drag bars can vary in design and selloff, but generally do not have a raised height, with a mild to moderate sell-off that makes for a slightly aggressive but still relaxed seating position.
6) Beach Bars:
Usually referred to as the little to no elevation height and the long, broad sweeping pullback. Beach bars deliver a relaxed, relaxed trip.
7) Stock/Other Bars:
Stock bars is the “catch-all” category, and these stock bars can vary slightly in height, pullback, and overall width. Examples include Trackers, Club mans, Buckhorn, Scramblers, etc.
8) Knurled vs Smooth (Excludes H-Bars/ T-Bars):
This applies to the place where the bars are clamping down on the risers. The knurl on the bars provides extra traction to the clamps so that the bars do not move or rotate when riding. Whether you’re using tall Ape Hangers, some strong handlebars, or you want extra peace of mind that bars won’t move when you’re riding, it’s a good idea to use knurling handlebars. Smooth handlebars don’t have the friction applied, but as long as they’re well clamped down, you don’t have to worry about sliding them.
9) Drilled, Dumped Vs Smooth:
Your control/grip fort area will be either dipped, drilled, or smooth. Dimpled bars are used in the 1982up Harley models to allow wiring clearance. Specifically, they are required so that the wires trying to run to the hand controls are not nicked. Drilled/Slotted handlebars have cutouts close to the controls and at the lower part of the bars to enable the wiring to run inside the bars for a clean edge. They can be used on almost any type of bike and are typically used for custom installs.